Archive for the ‘Dog Training Articles’ Category
Dog Training Article: The Facts About Modern Electronic Training Devices
Tuesday, March 9th, 2010“We recognize that older products were often unreliable and difficult to use humanely. But we feel that new technology employed by responsible manufacturers has led to products that can be and are being used safely and effectively to preserve the safety and well-being of many dogs and strengthen the bond with their human companions.”
– Randall Lockwood, PhD Vice President for Research and Educational Outreach The Humane Society of the United States
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Today’s technology is surprisingly subtle, more effective
In the 30 years since the first “shock collars” became widely available in the United States, these increasingly popular behavioral training products have been refined to produce more effective results in ways that have proven not only to be humane, but also—in fact—gentle.
While the technology behind modern electronic training devices has come a long way, some veterinarians and consumers harbor misconceptions about these products and their effect on dogs based upon their impressions of older, crudely designed devices. To the contrary, clinical studies in recent years offer conclusive evidence that the proper use of modern electronic training devices does not lead to adverse physiological effects on dogs.
This paper presents case studies, conclusions and informed opinions on risks versus benefits from researchers at the Tuskegee University College of Veterinary Medicine, international canine behavior experts, practicing veterinarians, animal welfare organizations, professional dog trainers, sport dog enthusiasts and others who have tested and observed the effects of electronic training devices on dogs in shelters and laboratories, on farms and in other real-world settings.
As you will gather from reviewing the current literature, a wide range of credible experts believe that the average dog owner with basic knowledge of training techniques can effectively and humanely use electronic training devices for behavioral modification, obedience training and containment needs.
This paper dispels a number of myths about electronic training devices. As evidence of the evolving body of knowledge about today’s technology, conclusions about the safety and effectiveness of modern electronic training devices are supported by The Humane Society of the United States, The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) and the International Association of Canine Professionals, among others.
Because dog owners frequently ask veterinarians how to address common behavioral issues, professionals have an opportunity to impart credible, proactive and vital information that can greatly increase the likelihood of a dog’s acceptance into the family. This paper’s purpose is to help you become more familiar with credible research into and objective facts about today’s products so as to be conversant when discussing behavioral solutions with dog owners.
Myths About Electronic Training Devices
Evidence exists that almost all veterinarians are concerned about the alarming rise in shelter populations and euthanasia statistics—many of which are attributable to behavioral issues. Because veterinarians are in a unique and credible position to proactively educate dog owners about behavioral health, it is helpful to be aware of the latest tools that dog owners may employ to help their pets succeed as valued and permanent members of the family.
This paper will dispel many myths about electronic training devices, including that:
- They make dogs aggressive;
Or, conversely . . .
- . . . The devices only work on aggressive dogs
- They “shock” the dog
- Electronic collars can cause burns
- Dog owners have to be … [read the full article for FREE, simply register for our newsletter below to gain instant access!]
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Dog Training Collar Review: Veterinarian’s Opinion
Monday, March 8th, 2010The following dog training video contains a straightforward opinion of using an electronic dog training collar to train your dog. A veterinarian brought his 7 month old chihuahua to Sit Means Sit for dog training classes. During a quick intermission during his second lesson, we got a chance to ask this veterinarian a few questions about his experience training his dog with a remote dog training collar.
Veterinarians around the United States have been training their personal dogs, and recommending Sit Means Sit dog training to their clients for years. Safety is a big concern for many pet owners considering training their dog. Nobody would put a dog training collar on their dog if it was going to hurt them. Certainly, not a veterinarian with a 7 month old chihuahua. The truth about electronic dog training collars disturbs many people who want to see these tools banned. Those people are usually the ones that relay myths about ‘the collar will shock your dog’, or share a story about a dog that had his neck burnt by a remote dog collar. The fact is, remote dog training collars cannot burn a dog. It is physically impossible to use these devices to damage your dog’s body using the electrical stimulation.
Sit Means Sit firmly believes in safe dog training. The technology we employ is 100% safe for dogs and humans. The Sit Means Sit dog training collar uses state of the art digital technology to control the output from the collar to prevent it from harming your dog. The technology that is utilized in the construction of our collar is similar technology to “electronic muscle stimulators” and “TENS” units. You may be familiar with the use of these devices in the medical field (they are very common in the Chiropractic and Physical Therapy fields) or perhaps you’ve seen devices advertised on TV as “electronic muscle massagers”. These devices essentially use low-level, adjustable electronic stimulation to create muscle contractions. In the medical field, they are used as tools to help alleviate pain, promote blood circulation and encourage healing.
In the dog training field, specifically Sit Means Sit dog training, remote dog training collars are used as a tool to provide a remote controlled cue. The cue is designed to neither cause pain nor to disrupt the dog’s emotional state, but rather to function as an adjustable “tap”. The approach used by Sit Means Sit trainers is to treat the “tap” from the collar as a cue for the dog to pay attention. This is no different than tapping a person on the shoulder to gain their attention. The goal of tapping them on the shoulder is not to hurt them or cause emotional distress, but rather to let them know that you want to communicate something to them.
The “tap” delivered from the Sit Means Sit Collar is a highly adjustable sensation that can be set to levels that are often imperceptible to people. Obviously the adjustable nature of the dog training collar is necessary because some dogs are sensitive, while others are quite tough. There is no way to determine what levels your dog will respond to until you begin to train them with a collar. Another reason why the collars are so adjustable is because distractions from the environment are never consistent. Relate this to training with a treat. How many times will that treat work perfectly indoors, but fails to maintain your dog’s attention when a cat is running by. Sit Means Sit has found that dogs can be taught to pay attention around extreme distractions very effectively. Just check out our dog training video portfolio to see for yourself.
During the fundamental Sit Means Sit dog training, the dogs and handlers are taught how to condition their dog to the collar in a constructive and positive manner. By adjusting the level of the collar appropriately for the dog and the situation, as well as linking the tap from the collar with an item of high value, we can effectively teach the dog that the “tap” from the collar is related to something of value. This approach to fundamentals allows for a smooth transition into distraction training and off leash control through attention to command. Read our dog training article “The Art of Attention” by Sit Means Sit CEO Fred Hassen and Sit Means Sit Trainer Toni Drugmand for more information.
Any dog can trained using the Sit Means Sit dog training collar. With variable intensity, and our special small dog adapter, the Sit Means Sit dog collar can be adapted to any dog of any size, breed or coat type. Watch the video below for a veterinarian’s opinion on using an electronic dog training collar and the Sit Means Sit dog training method.
Check out this article featuring Dr. Kathy Allen, DVM on the use of electronic dog training collars in your dog’s training.
Do you have an opinion on training your dog with an remote dog training collar? We’d love to hear it! Please leave a comment below.
Leash Walking Your Dogs
Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010One of the most common dog problems that we encounter with our clients are dogs that pull on the leash. Many times, even well behaved dogs are terrible when they are on a leash. Some people choose to simply take their dogs off leash, but let’s be realistic. Are you willing to risk getting a citation for having your dog illegally off leash in public?
The challenges faced with teaching a dog to walk politely on a leash without pulling are numerous. They can ultimately be broken down into two broad categories:
- The distractions and prospects of the outdoor world are numerous
- Dogs have a naturally occurring opposition reflex
Distractions
When you leave your house, suddenly and automatically the distraction level that you have to contend with spikes. Dramatically. With this increase in the distraction, many times it means your dog’s level of attention to command drops dramatically too. The challenge is of course, that with all the prospects of new smells and new things to explore, each step you take validates your dog’s desire to pull. Every step he takes brings in new smells and new things to explore, thus rewarding your dog for pulling.
Opposition what?
An ‘opposition reflex’ is just a fancy way of saying that your dog does the opposite of whatever physical guidance you may provide. Basically the dog has a tendency to pull away from leash tension. A common technique people use to try to control a dog who pulls on the leash is to shorten and tighten the leash in their hand into a super-tight vice grip. This actually does the opposite of what the trainer wants, as it typically encourages the dog to pull more, and harder. How many times have you seen a dog on a choke-chain dragging their owner around, all the while restricting their breathing and potentially hurting themselves in the process. Common-sense would dictate that if something is choking you, you do what is necessary to remove the tension. In dog-language, common sense is to pull away from the choking sensation. Obviously, that doesn’t work.
The challenges faced with walking multiple dogs at once are the same, but doubled. There is also that competitive factor between the two dogs to get where they want to go first. Factor in the issue of dogs feeding of each others energy (basic pack mentality) and you’ve got some very difficult situations to deal with. As professional trainers, we recommend getting control over each dog individually to begin with, and then bringing the two (or three dogs) together as distractions for each other to proof the exercise.
The beautiful thing about training multiple dogs with a Sit Means Sit Dog Collar is the ability to control two or three dogs from one remote control. There is no need to fumble with multiple remote controls. The Sit Means Sit dog training collar features a programmable remote control allowing you to switch from single dog operation to multi-dog operation in the field and on the fly.
The video below features a Sit Means Sit dog training client from Las Vegas who was hesitant to call Sit Means Sit at first, however after only two lessons was more than pleased she did. She can now walk both her excitable golden retrievers at the same time without them pulling on the leash and dragging her around. More importantly, she has gained confidence in her ability to maintain her dogs’ training. Don’t take our word for it, check out the video from her second lesson below.
Check out our dog training client from Colorado training her three dogs off leash. We’d love to hear your feedback. Feel free to leave a comment and share your dog training tips.
By Fred Hassen
& Toni Drugmand
If you have a barking dog it can be annoying and costly.
Although no one has ever been sent to jail for a barking dog in Maricopa County, Arizona last year aprox 75 dog owners were prosecuted for having barking dogs.
The law states:
“No person shall keep a dog within the city limits which is in the habit of barking or howling or disturbing the peace and quiet of any person within the city”.
The law goes on to read: The maximum sentence for violating the barking-dog ordinance is six months in jail, a $2,500.00 fine and a misdemeanor charge! Although actual records show fines more likely in the range of $300.00 or less, the owner of a barking dog should be aware of potential consequences in addition to the pressures of unhappy neighbors.
Dogs bark for a variety of reasons. Most dogs are a good alarm and when they hear something suspicious they bark to warn us that something is askew or someone is at our door. These barking traits can be very desirable. They can make us feel safe when we are home or help us feel our belongings or property is safe when we are away.
Dogs that are left unattended too long however can bark excessively because they are bored or lonely.
Criminal complaints filed along with annoyed neighbors and the likely possibility your dog is not getting his needs adequately met for exercise and attention are good reasons to take immediate action & diminish unwanted problem barking the moment you become aware of it.
If you wonder if your pooch is home barking while you are away; ask your neighbors to let you know if your dog (s) are a verbal nuisance. This can help maintain the peace of the neighborhood if neighbors think you are responsible and concerned about fixing the problem.
Training options may include:
Teaching your dog to bark on command and then stop barking on command. This may require the help of a professional dog trainer. This may sound like a contradiction but can actually help your dog to be discriminating in his barking.
Some useful training aids are the following;
· Spray bottle with water
· Training collar and check chord
· Throw can with pennies inside
· Bark collar
Training must occur at the moment the behavior occurs.
The most difficult thing about training for the barking dog is that it requires supervision. If your dog is barking when he is unattended, there is very little that you can do about it except to put a bark collar on him. If the anti-bark collar is quality it is effective for solving the problem because when the dog’s vocal chords vibrate the dog receives an electrical stimulation and quickly he will learn not to bark in order to prevent the stimulation from occurring. The problem with the bark collar from a trainer’s perspective is that the dog does not get any aid in discriminating when it is okay to bark and when it is not. It is solely an eliminating tool.
Setting up training situations that provide barking opportunities for your dog while you engineer some way to correct the behavior can be effective. However this can be more difficult for the city dog, especially the apartment dog. In this case better management may be required. If the dog is being left outdoors, then perhaps leaving him inside will help prevent over stimulation for him. A dog crate can help maintain the dog safely in the home if his inside manners are not to be trusted.
If you are the neighbor of a barking dog owner be sure to identify yourself if and when a complaint is made so that the responsible dog owner and considerate neighbor can let you know that the problem is being addressed. You will also provide the barking dog owner’s input as to whether the training tactics are working.
If your problem is serious don’t hesitate to seek the help of a professional dog trainer in your area so that you and your dog can live in harmony in your neighborhood.
Ask the Trainer:
Tdrugmand@aol.com
Fred@sitmeanssit.com
“But my dog just wants to say hi to your dog”.
Sunday, August 30th, 2009Not every dog enjoys having another dog come up from behind and goose him. It really is not polite to allow your dog to go visit another dog without asking the owner if it is OK.
There are some dogs that don’t like other dogs in their space. (See the tip on Space and Your Dog). It shows responsible and considerate actions towards others in public places when your dog is under control. Even a dog which normally is considered “dog friendly” with other dogs can have some issue with certain dogs. Or, your dog could get too friendly with the wrong dog. In either case, you just might find yourself in the middle of an unpleasant encounter, which could develop into a dogfight! Be polite and courteous with your dog in public which will help insure the dog friendly public will continue to want to have dogs around. It only takes one bad experience to ruin it for everyone.
Aggression – Space and your Dog
To fairly and safely manage their dogs when presented with another dog in close proximity, owners first need education on issue of space.
One of the most common things we see in dog aggression and space, is how your dog views space in relation to you and the area he is presently occupying. This is often confusing to the dog owner who simply wants to take their dog on a walk for exercise hoping to reap the enjoyment of letting the dog do “doggy” things like sniff and enjoy an outing together.
Dogs that exhibit aggressive behaviors towards other dogs and sometimes people are often showing signs of claiming territory or space. Sometimes the dog is overly bold and confident, but more often a dog that displays aggressive behaviors is responding out of concern or fear and feels that acting the bully will protect himself. Space issues for your dog can be the immediate area around them, for instance, another dog sniffing at him in a close and personal encounter. This common occurrence can create insecurity for the dog and sometimes an aggressive conflict will arise.
The dog that feels threatened can respond by being forward and becoming a bully, pulling, barking, growling and lunging often are reactions created by feelings of vulnerability. Additionally, a fair number of dogs will claim much larger areas of territory as their space. This could include your home, or your car, the yard, anyone walking by the front window, the sidewalk, even the entire city block. These behavior patterns are more difficult for the normal owner to understand, because generally they see only the “gentle” side of the dog when he is home interacting with the family.
First we want to be fair to our dog and help him to feel secure and non-threatened when other dogs are around. This can be accomplished simply by not allowing another dog to get into his space, this may also include people that want to “honey up” to your dog. The dog being walked down the street doesn’t need to come up and to sniff your dog. Politely explain to your neighbor that your dog isn’t comfortable with this. At the same time don’t allow your dog to be rude and come up the backside of someone else’s dog. This space is very personal and while one dog may not react, or react by becoming submissive, another dog might react very differently and become defensive. Imagine if someone you didn’t know well got right into your “face” without your initiation or invitation. How would you react to this invasion of your space?
The first thing to be aware of is to be fair to your dog and help manage his space well. It is your job to be in control of this. Teach your dog what is appropriate space to feel territorial over. For instance it may be Ok to bark when the doorbell rings, but he should quite down as soon as you tell him that it is OK to do so. At the same time, discourage your dogs forward approach towards sniffing and getting personal with another dog. Help your dog feel safe and secure by keeping other dogs out of his “face” or personal space. This will alleviate a lot of unnecessary negative behaviors. The baffling thing to most owners is that the behaviors always seem to come out of nowhere. It doesn’t take the dog long to learn how to act negatively. The first time he acts out and it works for him simply because you didn’t know how to manage or fix it, in the dog’s mind, these behaviors are successful encounters. Be cause the immediate reward for barking, pulling or other aggressive actions caused the other dog to go away, they worked for him. (He doesn’t recognize that the other guy on the end of the lead was dragging the dog away, or that the mailman was leaving anyway!) From the dog’s point of view, he was successful at defending his territory; he claimed home turf! The next time he will be a little more forward and confident and before long your dog is way out of control.
Remember the Art of Attention from our first tip? If your dog has never learned the art of attention as we discussed in our earlier tip, it becomes very difficult for the owner to manage the dog, especially when he is excited and stressed. This can be uncomfortable, maddening and embarrassing for the owner. It can also become a liability if the dog isn’t educated on how to behave in public and he bites. In such cases many owners seek training as a last resort. Most dogs once taught clearly what is OK to claim as their natural space and once comfortable deferring to their owners position of having things under control so they no longer need to defend the turf, will easily give up the need to act out aggressively.
Top 10 reasons Sit Means Sit dog training works in Agility
Thursday, August 6th, 2009Toni Drugmand and ‘Stuff’ seen above.
Toni Drugmand is a remote collar specialist, and a Sit Means Sit dog training franchise owner in the Phoenix/Scottsdale Arizona area.
5 years ago, along with Sit Means Sit dog training creator Fred Hassen, they performed the very first remote collar seminar that was designed exclusively for handling agility dogs, that was held in Phoenix Arizona. Toni still runs her Sit Means Sit dog training business, and still actively competes in agility a long with many other dog training disciplines.
Top 10 reasons that Sit Means Sit remote collar training can be helpful to the handler and dog in agility.
Since the remote collar dog training that we do at Sit Means Sit focuses on having the ability to communicate remotely (at a distance) to our dogs and help attain attention in the face of high excitement and distraction, it offers many positive things which can make our dog training goals more clearly defined to our dogs.
In Phoenix Arizona where I live, we have all levels of agility enthusiasts from the novice pet owner all the way to national top competitors. There are many schools and clubs in our valley that offer training techniques and different styles of handling to meet just about everyone’s tastes and needs.
By far the most prevalent behaviors that I have referrals for in the agility community in my area are:
A. The dog won’t come when he’s called reliably or he runs off and forgets his job. The handler can’t compete with his dog or has been asked to not come back to class until the problem has been fixed.
Or
B. The dog gets over stimulated by the activity and commotion of the other dogs and acts inappropriately out of play or aggression AND he will not come when he’s called. The handler can’t compete with his dog or has been asked to not come back to class until the problem is resolved.
In reality these two behaviors stem down to one thing and the most important element to dog training in general; Attention. The dog that can’t put his attention on what the handler asks is bound to get in to trouble somewhere and at higher levels as an agility enthusiast because he if off leash and running free! After all what can be better than this….If it is controllable of course.
These two behaviors are generally our focal point for the agility handler that enters into our program. Some of our clients are thrilled after a few sessions and are happy to just focus their time into maintining excellent attention to come and find most of their main goals are met just instilling the foundational skills we teach them. However, other’s in the program choose to take advantage of the “Full Monte”, and these clients are able to gain further achievement with learning the versatility of the ability to direct their dogs at a distance and keep obstacle focus and handler focus in balance.
Below are the Top 10 ways that make it easier to work remotely in agility using the Sit Means Sit Dog Training System :
1. Working at distance ;
In agility it is important for the dog to learn to work towards the obstacle he is directed to and to work at a distance. Very quickly we can teach our dogs that our cues mean the same thing when we are close by and we can wean more quickly to the goal of the same behavior at a distance.
2. Keep the dog focused on his job;
Since not all dogs are as motivated as we would often like, we can help keep focus more easily and at distances with the cue or our training aid.
3. Recall with reliability;
In agility, teaching the dog to come towards you is used to change the dogs direction from the obstacle in front of him. A reliable “come” or “here” will redirect the dog to look in the handlers direction at which time the handler can show the dog the new direction he wants him to take.
4. Directs through excitement ;
Distractions in the training environment can be anything from noise, fast movement, an enticing smell, a judge wearing a hat or discrimination from one obvious obstacle to a less obvious one, food dropped on the training floor, a favorite toy and also stress can cause the dogs focus to leave his job. With our communication we can calmly talk to the dog and help keep him on track through distractions so that he learns to be more capable of handling distractions with less and less aid until he can do his job realiably without the aids.
5. Sit’s and Down stays away from the handler;
The Pause table can be tough for some dogs. Fast moving dogs think it is rude to ask them to stop when they have 4 to the floor in high gear. Shy dogs can get de-motivated by being asked to slow down. Smooth and thin coated dogs such as Italian greyhounds may not find the surface very comfy. Fast dogs with high drive can benefit from learning to control themselves while shy and slower dogs can have their confidence and speed encouraged enhancing their performance without the handler having to yell, or hyperventilate trying to motivate performance.
6. Start lines allowing the handler to lead out on course;
It is a disadvantage if the handler can not take a lead out on the start line if he chooses to because the dog can’t hold a stay until he is told to go. Teaching our dogs a remote stay is one of the first things our clients learn. Even the drivey dogs that shake at the start line with their muscles quivering can get better at holding a stationary position on the start line.
7. Contacts as boundaries are more clearly defined;
There are many schools of thought on teaching contacts. Teaching running contacts can be broken down to teaching a contextual surface while on the move. Cueing the dog to learn to touch a smaller area breaks down to teaching a clear boundary. The remote collar again gives us remote directability once the behavior has been taught close in to the dog.
Teaching the contact as two on two off, or a rock back down on the edge of the contact is a more simplified version of teaching the dog to touch and stay put in a certain position using a contextual surface. Although there are many other things to consider when teaching contacts, specifically head position, we can utilize a remote cue to help make our picture clearer to our dogs.
8. Obstacle discrimination;
The more clear and timely both physical and verble cues are to the dog the more quickly he can get the information on direction away from the obvious obstacle to the less obvious. The remote collar gives us the ability to remotely add a physical cue to the timing of both and to give the dog a prepatory cue .
9. Aggressive tendencies;
Aggression and tendencies to be aggressive have many triggers with motion, fast movement and chaotic energy being a top contender for set offs. Using the remote collar cue to help gain and maintain focus in the height of distractions has proven helpful to keep the dogs attention when in a stimulated state
.
10. Aids in weaning away from other training aids such as toys and treats;
The end goal to teaching an agility dog is of course to do all the behaviors without any training aids. The remote collar as an aid will have to be faded as well. Using the remote collar you can more quickly fade from some early aids such as food and toys until you have set your patterns well enough and long enough that they become habits and patterns. At this point the remote collar would begin to fade as well.
– Although no one tool can create the perfect dog and we certainly don’t want robots, most agree that both the handler and the dog have more fun together when the dog is listening and as a pair you can work together. We feel that training with the Sit Means Sit remote training program, we can help clarify information and help get the dog to the stage of working off leash with a high level of success.
Dog Training Franchise interview with Fred Hassen
Sunday, June 7th, 2009Check out the latest Fred Hassen interview.
House Breaking Your Puppy
Sunday, August 24th, 2008

DOG-ON-IT! dog ‘Stuff’ goes “pee”
on command!
By Fred Hassen & Toni Drugmand
Believe it or not, house training is one of the easiest things to teach a dog because dogs are clean by nature and don’t like to soil their den area. Using this concept, begin by always supervising your puppy when he/she is not in her den-crate environment. The largest reason people fail with house training is that they give the puppy more freedom than the pup or dog is capable of handling. An un-supervised pup or dog is bound to make mistakes.
Use a Crate to Replicate the Den
If you can utilize a crate to replicate the “den” environment that dogs need and feel secure in it will shorthand the process. If the puppy or dog is given the opportunity to get out of his crate when necessary, it can aid your house training efforts enormously. As the puppy is let out from the dog crate, take him out on a leash to the spot you will want him to eliminate. If he goes, praise him. If not, put him back into his crate and try again in about 15 minutes or so. Continue with this cycle until you and your dog have a routine going. Success earns the pup freedom for twenty minutes or so. Gradually extend the time as he grows older and more reliable. Remember a seven-week-old pup does not have a great deal of bladder control. Don’t expect him to go more than a few hours without having to eliminate, and don’t expect him to wait once he is out of his crate to eliminate.
Use an Elimination Word
Begin the first time you take your puppy out to give a word to associate elimination with. In the beginning the puppy won’t understand the word, but if each time you take him out you say to your puppy, “hurry up”, or “go potty” and continue to repeat the phrase until he goes, praising when it happens, your puppy will learn to associate these words with the action. Later when traveling or out in public it can be a cue word to get your dog to relieve himself in quick time, without having to wait in the scorching sun, or freezing rain.

Sit Means Sit dogs ‘Sonic’ and ‘Beck’
taking a bathroom break!
All-in-One Management System
An even easier system for house training is to do crate training with a dog door and an enclosed dog run on the other side of the dog door. The dog crate goes up to the dog door. The dog door in the beginning may need to be taped or otherwise rigged up so the puppy can comfortably go through the dog door. The outside of the dog crate should be enclosed somehow to prevent the puppy from getting into any harm, or harm finding him!
Supervise your Pup or New Dog
When the pup isn’t in his crate, you have to use constant supervision to keep him from making mistakes. The easiest way to do this is to literally tie or tether the pup to your waist with a leash or line, or tether him to a piece of furniture where he has no more than three feet of freedom in any direction. Remember that a pup tethered to furniture should be watched carefully or he may chew it. Crating, supervising and tethering are examples of a management system used to support the dog until he is trained. With the crate set up to the dog door system, your puppy learns quickly to let himself out of his containment area to relieve himself. It also helps him develop some independence from always having you to hold his hand, thus increasing the need for the puppy to feel that he needs someone to take him out, he can’t possibly go by himself.
Preventing Separation – Anxiety
Because dogs are inherently pack animals, they prefer to be with us, than be alone. Most cases of adult “separation- anxiety” would never develop if the dog as a puppy had been trained in the crate/dog- door/dog -run management system just described. Early on the puppy would learn to deal with being alone and without the opportunity to dig, chew or destroy things left available. One important thing to consider with this system is that when you first let your puppy out of his crate you would still want to take your dog immediately to the outside area you are encouraging him to go relieve himself in. Even though your crate has access to the outside, puppy may have been resting and not recently “emptied out.” It won’t take much movement on the dogs part to feel the strong urge or need to “go.” We don’t want mistakes that could have been prevented. These are some of the first essentials for a good start with your new puppy. Enjoy him and give him a good start with safe and secure boundaries in your home!
All three dogs in the pictures and in the video are Sit Means Sit trained dogs. They are trained to do fun things which help us educate the public. You can learn more about puppy training and housebreaking rules.
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Sit Means Sit shows it’s stuff in Parade
Thursday, August 14th, 2008Dog sits, stays, garners parade award
Sit means sit, and Roxie knew it, shown above. She and owner Paul Pollock, of Sit Means Sit dog training Cleveland-Akron, won a first-place award in Fairlawn’s Independence Day Parade.
Paul Pollock, of Fairlawn, local representative of Sit Means Sit, said “sit” and meant it to Roxie, a dog he’d adopted from Haven for Pets four weeks prior to participating in Fairlawn’s July 4 parade.
Because Roxie, who Pollock said didn’t even know what “sit” meant upon her adoption, obeyed so well, she and Pollock garnered a first-place award in the parade.
Roxie sat on the roof of a car throughout the parade while Pollock walked alongside.
“I had placed a mat on the middle of the roof for Roxie to sit on and a bowl of water in front of her in case she got thirsty and to keep her cool,” Pollock explained in an e-mail to the West Side Leader. “She held her sit the entire parade! The car never went over 5 mph, but Roxie loves riding on the roof.”
He went on to explain Sit Means Sit’s definition of an obedient dog is “off-leash control around severe distractions” — and that a parade certainly qualified, with sirens, music and a response from the crowd that included three standing ovations, he said.
Sit Means Sit Dog Training, or call Paul Pollock if you reside in Cleveland/Akron area at (330) 431-1997.
Our New Orleans Dog Trainer makes a splash at Veterinarian Conference.
Thursday, July 31st, 2008Morris Chaisson, who runs our Sit Means Sit New Orleans Dog Training office, was very busy at the New Orleans Convention Center which had over 7,000 animal experts for the American Veterinarian Medical Association, showing his Sit Means Sit dog training off to the throngs that were in attendance.
Sit Means Sit dog trainers always gather a crowd, and the news people usually grab us for an interview. Puppies are always a big hit for children and people in attendance at these events. Here is the Story on the event, a long with a video interview with Morris Chaisson from Sit Means Sit.
A Dog Training Collar that lasts forever?
Monday, July 21st, 2008Nothing lasts forever. Well, it used to be that way. The Sit Means Sit remote dog training collar will last you forever, and C.E.O. Fred Hassen guarantees it. If anything ever happens to it, even if your pet elephant accidentally steps on it, Sit Means Sit dog training will replace it, and they will do it at no charge except for your cost to ship it back to them. They will even gladly pay the shipping on the replacement that they are sending.
No more paying again and again to fix it when the warranty runs out either. All electronic devices have things go wrong with them, but Sit Means Sit dog training has made it so you don’t have to worry about that any longer!
“You can’t always control the environment, so you need to learn to be able to control your dog in all instances.” Hassen says.
Why would a company do such a thing? ‘Well’, Hassen says, ‘We do lifetime programs on our training packages, and we understand that various things can happen that need attended to during the life of your dog, and you should be able to pick up your training at no additional charge should you decide to take time off, and recontinue at any point.” Hassen continues, “Also, you may have picked up your dog as a puppy, and everything is going fine, but he gets a bit stronger and more demanding. You should not have to keep paying as your dog grows.” Hassen believes that things happen in the electronic world as well, and he wants the public to be able to replace the Sit Means Sit dog collar should anything happen to it for the life of that product as well.
All dog owners should learn to be fairly proficient at using his remote dog collar, Hassen believes, “Not only for the safety of your dog, but also in many cases for the safety of those around you.” Hassen says, that people do take their dogs off-leash in instances, and there is also a rising trend in off-leash dog parks around the country, and most of the dog fights that are started in these places are because of owners lack of control of their dog, or their dogs lack of manners.” The Sit Means Sit dog collar is also waterproof.
Fred Hassen is doing his part in helping dog owners whether it is a pet dog, police dog training, or any other type, around the world with many locations in Canada, and one is Australia as well that opened in October of 2008. Sit Means Sit dog training businesses have career opportunities available for those wanting to make lives better for owners and dogs.
The Sit Means Sit dog collar is an electronic device that is devised from the same premise as muscle stimulators, which are proven devices that alleviate pain in the medical community. The Sit Means Sit dog training businesses and their business owners, teach dog owners everywhere how to be proficient enough at using the device at the level they choose. “They set their own bar”.
Will my dog listen without the collar on?
Initial prototype testing with the Sit Means Sit remote electronic dog collar
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How do dogs like the Sit Means Sit dog collar?
Sit Means Sit dog collar voted one of best pet products for 2007!
Read this testimonial from a Sit Means Sit client in Kansas.
I just wanted to share a little how Sit Means Sit and our trainer Andrew changed our entire house and life with our 9 month old Boxer Yogi. We were to the point that Yogi had to go. he was destructive, did not listen to anyone and bullied the kids. With 4 young children this was just not going to cut it. I hated to give him up, but did not see any other way to make it work. He was more than we could handle as a family, but thought I would look at some professional help first as a last step. I found Sit Means Sit and read as much as I could about them and how they work.
2 things jumped out at me that almost made me say NO WAY. First: I thought no way could we afford them if they could do what they claimed. 2nd: SHOCK COLLAR as the way to train, sounds cruel NO WAY.
But I read testimonials just like what I am writing today and thought I would at least have them come and show me what it is all about first. Had to see first hand and not prejudge them.
So Andrew and Zuri came over for a visit. Let me say I was never pressured to buy or do anything. Never a hard sell, just advise and information to help me make a choice we would be happy with. In fact I was talked out of doing a more expensive option because Andrew saw something in Yogi that we did not and felt he would be very trainable in our home. I got to see just how the training works by watching what Zuri could do. That took all of about 5 seconds to know this method works. Question was could it fix my dog, who I thought was a lost cause.
But I still had the issue of the collar and if it was cruel or not. Here is all I can say about the collar. It works! My 4 year old daughter held the collar in her hand and did not even feel it until it was at a 3. You will train your dog on a 1 or 2 most the time and it will work. So if a child did not mind it, I was OK with it being on my dog and not worry about it.
So we picked out package and got the first training set. First training comes and at the end of our first 2 hours Yogi, my lost cause dog is listening, coming on command, sitting and not running a way anymore. In 2 HOURS, WOW. Now I will tell you working with your dog on what you learn every night is very important and learning yourself what and how to teach them is critical; but FUN! To make a long story very short, after our last lesson I can walk Yogi off leash any where. He is more of a dog and part of our family than I ever thought he could be.
If you love your dog and want him/her to be a member of your family (PACK) and want to see results the first day, you have to become part of Sit Means SIt. I never thought I would say something like “it has changed our life” but they (Andrew) actual have. My whole family is very grateful to Andrew and Sit Means Sit for teach us how to teach our dog. There is no better way to do it that gives your fast results, and total control the first day.
The Cooper’s
Lenexa, ks
Read more Sit Means Sit Testimonials!
Watch exciting Sit Means Sit dog training videos of our work in action! (more…)
The Art Of Attention
Friday, July 18th, 2008By Fred Hassen & Toni Drugmand
Sit Means Sit www.sitmeanssit.com
A Good Foundation
Whether you are working with a puppy, an adolescent or mature dog, everything you teach your dog STARTS with attention! Attention to your command is the best foundation. There is a bit of an art to teaching attention however.
Training Aids
Using a long line that is attached to the pups collar both helps in leash training and acts as a guide to direct the puppy’s attention from the wrong things he may choose to do. The long line gives the handler the ability to reach out and interrupt an incorrect behavior such as chewing, jumping etc. Be sure to give the pup something he can do such as chew on a safe bone or toy to help manage his idle time.
Motivation & Balance
Finding something that motivates your dog to focus on your command in the face of distractions can be challenging! A leash and collar might be one way to do this; another might involve an enticing food reward or toy. Try Teaching your dog to do something you want before he gets something he wants, such as sit before a meal, or heel correctly for several paces and reward with a ball toss. Training should be both motivational and balanced in order for your dog to learn. Our system can include all or any of the mentioned aids along with the cue of a remote training collar. This tool gives us the ability to clearly communicate to our dog and enhances reliability. If faced with a strong distraction such as a cat running, we want immediate response to our command ;enough to call our dog back from the cat temptation!
Supervision
Usually, When we bring a puppy home we have enough sense to recognize the need for supervision. Attention starts at this early age, both your attention to supervise and recognize the need for a safe containment area (crate, dog run see last months article for fuller description) is important. Teaching your dog or pup from day one should start with easy attention exercises or games. An example is the “come” game. One person calls the pup and the long line helps guide the puppy if needed while a lot of praise is given and maybe a treat or toy. Using a helper take turns rotating who is calling the puppy.
Age doesn’t matter
Many clients that call us fail to realize an adult dog still abides by the same training consistencies a puppy does. If an adult isn’t house broken, OR has learned to dig and be destructive for instance, we need to be fair by giving clear boundaries, no different than with a puppy. A safe containment and management system is important so positive learning happens. Over see all of your dogs free time to be sure your dog or pup doesn’t learn the wrong things, such as digging up moms garden!
Attention
Because it all comes down to attention, you need to decide what training techniques make the most sense for your needs. A clicker gives the dog the ability to have a reward when he does the right behavior. This can be helpful to mark the correct behavior, however it may not be a strong enough motivation if your dog really wants to chase that cat! A leash and training collar can be effective for getting attention, some dogs might even respond well to a toy or food lure. A remote collar is another safe humane technique that works like an adjustable tap on the shoulder to get your dogs attention. It has adjustable settings that can be changed to meet the environmental stimulation.
A remote training collar helps us keep our dog’s attention.
Don’t Change The Rules!
If you are working with your dog at home and your dog just needs clear boundaries, then don’t change the rules! Be consistent every time you ask for a behavior or supervise every step until it is a reliably set pattern. Your dog may amaze you at how smart he really is. If however you have a difficult problem with your dog, especially aggressive tendencies, you may want to seek a professional trainer to help you gain the control necessary to help keep your dog a happy and safe pet. Teaching attention is the art of presenting your dog with choices and letting him compare them. The old saying which states you can’t know short without knowing tall applies.
Feel free to e-mail with questions about your pet
Ask The Trainers:
Fred Hassen fredhassen@sitmeanssit.com
Toni Drugmand tdrugmand@aol.com
PHOENIX DOG TRAINING with Toni Drugmand
DOG TRAINING with Fred Hassen
Find a Sit Means Sit Dog Trainer Near You.
Become a Sit Means Sit Dog Trainer
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Puppy Training As Soon As Your New Pup Comes Home
Friday, July 18th, 2008By Toni Drugmand & Fred Hassen
Puppy Training – Training can begin as soon as your new pup comes home.
By the age of 7 weeks the puppy has a fully developed brain and nervous system. This is the optimum age for a puppy to leave his litter to begin his new relationship with you!
Boundaries
Day one begins with setting boundaries and house rules that will be in place for a lifetime, start with essentials like house breaking.
House Training
House training is easy to teach because dogs are clean by nature and don’t want to soil their den. The important issues with potty training are close supervision and giving the pup the chance to go outside when he has to relieve him/herself. House training fails because owners give the puppy more freedom than he is ready for.
Crate Training
Utilize a crate to replicate the “den” environment that dogs need and feel secure in. If the puppy is given the opportunity to get out of the crate when he needs to go, his natural desire to be clean and not soil the area he sleeps and spends time in will keep him from relieving himself in the crate.
Use the leash
Take your puppy on a leash or long line to the area where he should eliminate every time you take him from his crate. Use a word to associate the action of going to the bathroom every time puppy goes, example :”go potty”. This word association will help when traveling or out in public to cue your dog to relieve himself quickly. After he goes, praise him and reward with a treat, or toy. Distractions are mighty at this young age, so if he doesn’t go, put him back into his crate. Repeating the process in 15 minuets. Continue this way until you and your dog have a routine going. Success earns the pup freedom and time is gradually extended as he grows older and reliable. Don’t expect a puppy to go more than a few hours without having to eliminate, and don’t expect him to wait once he is out of his crate.
Puppy Management
An easy system for house training is using a crate with a dog door and an enclosed dog run. The dog crate goes up to the dog door making sure the puppy can go through the dog door into a protectively enclosed environment. With the crate-dog door system setup, your puppy will quickly learn to let himself out of his containment area to relieve himself at the same time it will help develop independence.
Dogs are pack animals preferring to be with us rather than alone. Most canine “separation anxiety” would never develop if the dog, as a puppy, had been trained in this puppy management system. The puppy learns early to deal with being alone without the opportunity to dig, chew or destroy things. We want to help the puppy avoid mistakes that could develop bad habits and could easily have been prevented with good management.
Supervision
When the pup isn’t in his crate, constant supervision must be used to teach what is important. The easiest way to do this is to literally tie or tether the pup to your waist with a leash or line, or tether him to a piece of furniture where he has no more than three feet of freedom in any direction. Watch carefully if the puppy is tied to avoid chewing. These are some of the first essentials for a good start with your new puppy. Enjoy him and give him a good start with safe and secure boundaries in your home!
By
Toni Drugmand, DOG-ON-IT Training and & Fred Hassen, Sit Means Sit Dog Training, www.nomoreleash.com & www.sitmeanssit.com
Ask The Trainers:
For email questions about training your puppy or dog contact:
Toni Drugmand at tdrugmand@aol.com Or Fred Hassen at SitMeansSitCEO@gmail.com
PHOENIX DOG TRAINING with Toni Drugmand
DOG TRAINING with Fred Hassen
Is Your Dog a Chewer?
Friday, July 18th, 2008By Fred Hassen & Toni Drugmand
Sit Means Sit Dog Training 702-877-4581
Does your dog chew your favorite things? Are clothing items and shoes favorite items for your pet? Chewing on things that bear your scent can be a way for your dog to occupy his alone time with. Chewing and becoming destructive are common behaviors problem for many pet owners.
Chewing is a natural behavior
Chewing is a behavior in the wild that is natural. Your dog has to be taught what to chew on. Chewing can happen for many reasons. Puppies chew when they are cutting teeth. You could have a dog that gets stressed when left alone, often called “separation anxiety” chewing or other destructive behaviors result out of anxiety and nervousness. You could have a dog that simply wasn’t taught not to chew when he was teething as a puppy. Now he has developed a habit or pattern of chewing when he is bored.
Supervise
For the many reasons that your dog may chew, you want to be able to address the problem and create a new pattern of not chewing. The most important aspect to consider with the chewing dog is that your dog whether a puppy or an adult must be supervised when he has the run of your home and yard in order to teach him not to chew on inappropriate things.
Contain your Pet
If you are unable to supervise your dog, then you must have a safe secure containment or management system for your dog so that he doesn’t learn a negative pattern of chewing by the reward of doing the wrong behavior when you are not available to supervise his actions. Booby-trapping the potential chewed targets is another way to approach chewing, but this will be very difficult to set up and accomplish reliably.
Test reliability with time
Using a dog crate, dog-run or other means of containment is a helpful tool to get you past the point of having to put your dog away, but until he has proven himself worthy of not being destructive for several months consistently your dog should not have the run of the home or yard if you hope to stop the wrong behaviors.
Interrupt the behavior with the help of a training aid
There are two ways to stop chewing. One is to contain your dog as we just mentioned. The other is to interrupt his flavorful explorations during his supervised free time! When your dog is interested in trying some new and exotic yummy taste of your home, like trying out the dirt in the flowerpot, use a training aid such as a long line that can interrupt the behavior with a gentle tug. Another suggested tool is a spray bottle with water that can spritz at the time of the action, a shake can with pennies is another tool that could be effective, though some dogs are noise sensitive to this. A remote collar is another way to interrupt the pup’s behavior. When using a remote collar, it is best to contact a “Sit Means Sit” trainer to get you headed in the right direction. Our method uses the remote collar as an attention getter, a way to non-invasively interrupt a behavior and gain attention. It is not used as heavy correction. Seeking a professional is the best way to know how to train your dog for your specific needs.
Obedience Training is helpful
General obedience training can be a helpful outlet as it will relax and tire your dog, but don’t count on “heel”, “sit” and “down” exercises to completely fix the problem without addressing where the dog is left when un-supervised.
Ask The Trainer
www.sitmeanssit.com or call us @ 702-877-4581
Fred Hassen and Toni Drugmand can both be reached via e-mail to answer your dog training questions.
Fred Hassen FredHassen@sitmeanssit.com
Toni Drugmand Tdrugmand@aol.com
PHOENIX DOG TRAINING with Toni Drugmand
DOG TRAINING with Fred Hassen
Keep your dogs safe in the Phoenix/Las Vegas Summer Heat.
Saturday, July 12th, 2008Summertime in the Desert with our Dogs
By Fred Hassen & Toni Drugmand
Temperatures in the summers here can reach over 110 degrees. Consider some important points from Veterinarian Dr. Kathryn Allen at Indian Bend Animal Hospital in Phoenix, Arizona.
The Obvious:
* Never leave your dog in a car
* The asphalt is too hot for your dog’s paws between approx. 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. Not sure? Take off your shoes and decide for yourself!
* Dogs left outside must have lots of water and shade. A doghouse is NOT shade.
The Not So Obvious:
* Pools are a hazard even for dogs that can swim. A dog will naturally swim to the closest edge (often the deep end) and try and get out from there. A dog does not naturally know there is an easier exit; he needs to be taught the easiest way out.
* A panting dog isn’t necessarily thirsty. Dogs pant for three reasons: they’re hot, they’re nervous, or they are in pain. A hot dog isn’t always thirsty, and a thirsty dog isn’t always hot.
* Some dogs willingly run themselves to a point of heat stroke, and it doesn’t have to be that hot. The worst case of heat stroke I’ve ever seen took place when the temperature was in the mid-eighties. The dog died.
Don’t assume he is a natural swimmer
Because we have so many pools in this area it can be a super way to allow the dog time to cool off, get some exercise and it is stress free on the joints. However, don’t take for granted that your dog will naturally be a good swimmer. A dog will often panic in the water and become vertical with his body. You can work with him while in the pool. Place your hand under his belly to help upright the back end. This will help to teach him how to use his body properly when in the water.
Teach Your Dog To Find The Steps
Be sure your dog knows how to find the steps. It may save his life some day! Here are some simple guidelines for finding the steps.
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With a long line attached to your dogs collar and one person standing in the water about 3 feet directly in front of the steps, hold the dog by the collar pointing him in the direction of the steps.
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Tell your dog “find the steps”.
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Poolside helper is standing on the first step holding the long line attached to the dog. There is no slack in the line. Guide the dog to the steps quickly. Do this until the dog does not need any help from the line and can confidently move to the steps on his own.
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Repeat the same steps but change the location. Three feet and to the left or right in place of straight in front of the steps.
· Proof the dog until he is successful at this phase.
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Work distance until you can move to the deep end and cover all sides and angles and your dog is moving confidently without any leash help to the steps.
Train in Several Sessions
This will teach your dog how to find the steps and give you some peace of mind. Your dog is using muscles he doesn’t necessarily use and may tire and get sore if you do it all in one training session. Train this over a few sessions. Think of it like working out at the gym on your first day.
Since we both live in the hot regions of the country we do offer swimming lessons to our clients. Please feel free to contact us if you would like specific help for your dog. You can also find our new Teach Your Dog To Swim video and catch a preview or purchase it at: http://www.dogonittraining.com/shop/video_swim.html
Doctor Kathryn Allen can be contacted at Indian Bend Hospital 40th street and Thunderbird 602- 867-2992.
Ask The Trainer:
Fredhassen@sitmeanssit.com
Tdrugmand@aol.com
PHOENIX DOG TRAINING with Toni Drugmand
DOG TRAINING with Fred Hassen
Police K-9 Training, it can get difficult out there.
Friday, May 2nd, 2008Things can get pretty wild out there on the streets for Police officers, K-9 handlers and their dogs. This story is a good example of how I guess they never know exactly who they are pulling over. Our own Sgt. Jerry Turning from our Sit Means Sit Central New Jersey location, and his 2 year old dog ‘Franco’ were actually involved in this bit of mayhem. Here is the article.
Car chase nabs wanted convict
BY MICHELLE SAHN • MAY 2, 2008
TINTON FALLS — Patrolman Michael Delucia was on routine patrol when he spotted a aqua-colored Pontiac with a rejected inspection sticker on Route 33 Thursday afternoon, police said.
So the patrolman activated his lights and sirens and pulled the driver over.
But when he made that stop, the patrolman did not know the driver had just been released from state prison in December, had also served time in federal prison for bank robbery and was wanted by federal authorities on an outstanding warrant.
The patrolman did not know the driver had a gun in the car and was wearing two sets of clothes, a skull cap with fake hair or pancake make-up, police said.
And he did not know that the driver planned to speed away as soon as he got out of his patrol car, authorities said.
What began as a routine stop turned into a chase that involved two crashes and an attempted carjacking, police said. It ended on Jumping Brook Road in Tinton Falls, when police subdued the driver after he punched a police dog, swung at a police sergeant and tried to grab a patrolman’s gun, authorities said.
Anthony E. Montgomery, 36, of Marsha Drive, Neptune, was charged Thursday afternoon with attempted carjacking, unlawful possession of a weapon, certain persons not to have a weapon, possession of hollow point bullets, eluding, resisting arrest and aggravated assault on a police officer.
Police said they suspect Montgomery was planning to commit a robbery, but was foiled when the patrolman pulled him over.
“They did a nice job,” said Capt. David Trevena. “They got a very dangerous person off the street.”
Around 12:08 p.m., Patrolman Michael Delucia stopped the Grand Am Montgomery was driving on Route 33 east. But Montgomery then sped away, down Route 33 onto Jumping Brook Road and Route 66, said Trevena.
That’s when officers called off the pursuit, but they continued to follow the vehicle at a safe distance, he said.
They lost sight of him, but then another motorist told them about an erratic driver who had just turned onto Asbury Avenue, the captain said.
Police spotted the car near the reclamation center and began to pursue him again, Trevena said.
At the intersection of Green Grove Road, Montgomery made a U-turn in the middle of the intersection and struck another vehicle, said the captain. That driver suffered a minor head injury and a baby in that vehicle was not hurt, he said.
Meanwhile, Montgomery continued westbound on Asbury Avenue, then turned onto Essex Road, and then onto Jumping Brook Road, police said.
He threw a gun out of the Pontiac, lost control of the car, hit a curb, traveled across the road, struck another curb and then hit trees, said Trevena.
Police said they later determined that before they arrived at the scene, he tried to carjack two drivers, but both of those motorists drove off.
When officers pulled up, Montgomery was trying to pull a man off of a motorcycle, police said.
Then he tried to run from the officers, but K9 Unit Sgt. Gerald Turning Jr. released his dog, Franco, said Trevena.
Franco lunged at Montgomery, but he punched the dog, knocking the animal to the ground, the captain said.
Turning drew his gun and told Montgomery to drop to the ground, but the Neptune man swung at the sergeant, police said.
Delucia tackled the 36-year-old, and Montgomery grabbed for the patrolman’s gun, but the dog then bit Montgomery, who continued to fight with the officers as they handcuffed him, said the captain.
Montgomery was wearing pancake makeup and a skull cap with fake, long hair attached to the back, said Trevena.
The Neptune man was wearing two pairs of pants, and a sweatshirt with another shirt underneath, police said.
The license plates on the Grand Am had been stolen in Asbury Park, but one of the letters was altered with black electrical tape, police said.
Police said they found a 9 mm loaded clip in the vehicle, and they found a 9 mm gun nearby.
There was an active U.S. Marshals Service warrant for Montgomery’s arrest.
Montgomery was being held at the Monmouth County Jail, Freehold Township, in lieu of $860,000 bail.
My Dog Has Fleas!
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Fleas are a problem for dogs and their owners alike. These tiny insects will live on the body of your dog, sucking the animal’s blood and laying eggs. The bites and presence of fleas will cause the dog to itch and if the dog happens to be allergic to fleas (the allergy is technically to the insects’ saliva) it can experience extreme itching, loss of fur in some places, inflammation, and infections. Regardless of whether the dog has an allergy to flea saliva, infestations must be dealt with or they will go on and on and the fleas will also infest your home, other pets, and can even live on humans. In short; you can be directly and adversely affected by an uncontrolled flea infestation.
Detecting Fleas
If you suspect that your dog has fleas because it’s been scratching more than usual, there are ways to check for their presence. Fleas are very small (about an eighth of an inch long), but visible to the naked eye, and brownish in color. Because they prefer dark places they will try to hide beneath the dog’s fur, under the collar, or on the underbelly. Their fecal material can also be seen on the dog’s coat and looks like multiple black flecks or specks – almost like pepper. If fleas or their droppings are found it is time to treat your dog to get rid of them.
Treating Your Dog for Fleas
While flea collars, powders, and sprays may help to prevent infestations to some extent, they will not help if the dog is already infested. When fleas are infesting a dog the female lays eggs at a rate of about thirty per day. These eggs fall off the dog and into the carpet, soil, or wherever the dog may be. In these areas they hatch and pupate, eventually growing into adult fleas which can then re-infest the dog. In order to halt the cycle all the fleas on the dog and in the environment must be killed or the life cycle must be interrupted.
There are several flea treatments available for dogs, but one of the best is an oral medication that will not kill adult fleas, but does kill the eggs and larva. This interrupts the flea life cycle and prevents them from coming back, as long as the dog is not continually exposed to new fleas. If that is happening, the source must be cleaned of fleas whether it is the carpet, the environment, or other dogs with which your pet associates.
Fleas can be a real nuisance for dogs and their owners, but catching them and treating the dog quickly is the key to eliminating the infestation and preventing the insects’ return.
Soft or Hard Dog Food – Which is Best?
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Sometimes dog owners are faced with a dilemma regarding what type pf dog food to provide their dogs. Dogs themselves tend to prefer the moist, canned types of food. They are more aromatic and naturally tempting to the dog’s palate than the dry kibble that comes in a bag. A dog’s dental health, however, relies on the dog being able to chew hard and crunchy items and dry kibble foods serve this purpose well. What’s an owner to do?
Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.” If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.
Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated” really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.
Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesn’t matter whether you’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dog’s teeth and will warn you if there’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.
The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogs’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.
Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the pooch’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can that’s fine, just make sure you’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.
Flying With Your Dog
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Dogs on Airplanes
There are many requirements that a pet owner must meet before traveling by air with a dog. While specific regulations will vary by airline as it relates to pets, most airlines work with the same general rules when it comes to flying dogs. Many airlines allow small dogs to fly in-cabin, but if you plan to fly with a medium to large breed you best check your options thoroughly.
Pets in the Cabin
Many airlines permit a passenger to carry on a small pet in the cabin of the plane provided they can fit comfortably into a pet carrier that fits underneath the seat (22″ L x 14″ W x 9″ H). The cost for this service varies by airline but is usually around $100.00 each way. An advance reservation is required for your pet as airlines limit the number of pets allowed to travel in cabin. For individual airline requirements call the airline before making your reservation or visit their web page. Most require the dog be clean, in good health with a recent health certificate and current on rabies vaccination. Carry the rabies certificate with you as you never know when you may be asked to prove up the vaccinations. The most important thing is that you call direct to make your reservations as they limit the pets on the plane.
Service Dogs in Cabin
All airlines are required by law to allow service dogs trained to assist a disabled person to fly in cabin with that person. Although airlines are not permitted to automatically require documentation for service animals other than emotional support animals, if you think it would help you explain the need for a service animal, you may want to carry documentation from your physician or other licensed professional confirming your need for the service animal. Passengers with unusual service animals also may want to carry documentation confirming that their animal has been trained to perform a function or task for them. You do not have to advise the airlines if you are traveling with a service animal, however it is highly recommended to do so if you require special assistance or seating in the bulk head row of the airplane. For safety considerations your service must not obstruct entrance/exit points during the duration of the flight. You should also make sure your dog is clean and well groomed the day of your flight. For the specific rules and regulations regarding traveling with a service dog visit – http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/rules/rules.htm
Many airlines will allow working dogs such as police K9 and search and rescue dogs to fly on-board with their handler. This is not required by law but many airlines will accommodate these well trained K9s by allowing them to fly with their handlers. You must call the airlines for the requirements as very few list this privilege on their website. Most will require you to fly in uniform, have the proper health certificate and proof of rabies vaccination as well as a letter from the department or search team authorizing travel. Some airlines still charge the in-cabin pet fee and some don’t.
International Flights
The customs laws of many nations restrict the passage of dogs and other pets over their borders. All pets are subject to quarantine laws of the country you are entering as well as returning to. Although many countries have lifted the quarantine requirements for service dogs you should check into this thoroughly prior to planning your trip. This website is very informative for information on traveling internationally with a service dog – http://www.miusa.org/ncde/tipsheets/servicedogs/
Pets as Cargo
So your dog is not a service dog, it’s not a police or search dog, and it won’t fit under the seat, what are your options? Many airlines will fly dogs as checked baggage or cargo regardless of whether you are a passenger on the flight or in need of getting a dog from one place to another. It is usually less expensive when you are traveling on the same flight as the dog, but some airlines don’t give you a break and charge the full cargo fee based on the weight of the dog and kennel size.
There is a lot to consider before you choose to ship a dog in the baggage compartment of the plane. Although airlines take great care when dealing with live animals there are a number of things that can happen when you turn over the care and control of your animal to someone else. According to the Department of Transportation over 2 million animals are shipped via cargo every year. Some of the animal rights groups have exaggerated the number of problems and will report incidents involving shipped pets as much at 5,000 per year. However, since the requirement that airlines report incidents involving pets traveling as cargo there are much fewer incidents than reported by some humane societies. According to an article from The Boston Globe from June of 2005 – June of 2006 only 74 incidents were reported to the DOT. To view the current incidents of pets flying visit the website Pet Flight. When you consider the amount of pets that are shipped every year, the risk for shipping a healthy, well tempered dog is minimal.
Some things to consider before shipping your dog as cargo –
Breed of Dog – If your dog is considered a brachycephalic (short nosed dog such as a pug or bulldog) you might not want to ship them as cargo. They can have difficulties breathing, especially when over heated or stressed.
Time of year – Typically airlines will place a ban in the shipment of pets in extreme weather. The ideal temperature should be between 45F – 85F. Many airlines will place an embargo on pet shipment when temperatures are too cold or too hot. Continental airline is one that has special accommodations for dogs traveling in extreme weather conditions.
Health and Age of Dog – Airlines require that a dog receive a full physical examination and be up to date on rabies vaccination prior to traveling. Usually the airline will require that the exam certificate be dated within 10 days of travel. However if you have an older dog or a dog that gets stressed in new and unusual environments you might not want to ship them via airline cargo. Most of the reports of animals that died in transport were older dogs or considered to be brachycephalic. The majority of injuries were from dogs trying to escape their kennel.
Type of Kennel – Make sure you have an airline approved kennel of sturdy construction that is large enough for your dog. Some of new kennels are poorly made and have metal doors that are thin and flexible enough for a dog to pop them open. The airlines should use sturdy plastic zip ties to secure the crate door. Be sure the check the bolts that hold the kennel together to make sure they are not loose. You can also use zip ties to help secure them as well. Some aircraft types cannot accommodate the giant or extra large kennels. The kennel needs to be large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in comfortably. Check with the airlines to determine the correct kennel size for your dog.
Visit this website for some helpful hints on keeping your dog safe – http://www.airlines.org/customerservice/passengers/Air+Travel+for+Your+Pet.htm
Other Shipping Options
Unsure about flying your dog as cargo? There are companies that will transport your dog using other various transportation methods. Here are some resources to check out -
http://www.smallanimaldelivery.com/index.php
http://www.uship.com/Dogs/articles/moving-dog-by-car/
Kennel Cough in Dogs
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.
Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.
The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.
Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.
Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.
Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.
Dental Care for Dogs
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Some people don’t realize that dental hygiene is as important for dogs as it is for human beings. Just like in people, dogs’ teeth can gather plaque after eating. When plaque builds up and hardens it becomes a coarse brown substance called tartar. As tartar accumulates it can work its way under the gums and cause painful infections and gum disease. This goes on in the mouths of dogs just like it does in people. You brush your teeth every day, probably three times. What does your dog do?
Teeth Brushing for Doggies
Veterinarians recommend that dog owners brush their dog’s teeth at least twice a week to keep the buildup of tartar at a minimum. Most pet supply stores carry specially designed toothbrushes and toothpaste just for dogs. Remember that a dog’s sense of taste and smell is far more acute than that of a human and the zesty, tingly, mint taste of toothpastes for people will be extremely awful to a dog. Try brushing Rover’s teeth with Crest just once and it will likely be the last time he lets you anywhere near him with a toothbrush. Use the specially designed doggie toothpaste.
Dental Chew
Some people don’t have the time or patience to brush their dogs’ teeth on a regular basis. If you’re one of these, you’ll want to care for Chopper’s choppers in another way. A dog’s natural tendency to chew is a built-in dental care mechanism. Dog biscuits break into small chunks when chewed and rub against the teeth, providing a cleaning service. There’s no substitute for brushing your dog’s teeth, but if you can’t do that, make sure he gets some sort of crunchy dog biscuit on a regular basis.
Mouth Diseases in Dogs
Dogs that do not receive proper dental care and do not have access to crunchy teeth cleaning foods run the risk of several types of mouth disease. These can be as mild as gingivitis (a gum disease that results in swollen, inflamed gums) and as serious as a bacterial infection that can spread through the dog’s bloodstream causing damage to vital organs. You owe it to yourself and your dog to take care of his teeth.
Doggie Dentistry
Dental services are available for dogs, just like they are for people. A dog’s teeth can be filled, capped, and extracted if necessary, just like a human’s. The best course of action, however, is to avoid the need for such services by properly caring for your dog’s teeth. If you can avoid unnecessary pain and discomfort for your furry friend, you should do so. Preventative doggie dental care can save you money as well. Doggie dental procedures can be quite costly.
Adopting a Dog
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008There are lots of ways that people choose a new family dog. Some may search the newspaper for advertisements from breeders who are selling new puppies; others find breeders via listings on the internet, while still more may simply purchase a puppy from a local pet store. Perhaps the best method, however, in terms of being helpful to society in general is to adopt a dog from a local animal shelter.
Adopting a dog brings a new friend into your life. It also helps to reduce the number of unwanted and homeless dogs in your area. Unless the shelter is a “no kill” facility (and these are sadly few and far between), it will also save a dog’s life. Animal lovers everywhere champion the adoption of dogs from shelters as opposed to any other method of bringing home a new pet for this reason alone, but there are other reasons to choose the adoption option.
Adopted pets have had their shots
Shelters often have information about a dog’s temperament
Adopting a pet frees space in the shelter for more dogs
When you adopt a dog you can be sure that the staff at the shelter has had the dog examined by a vet for diseases and parasites and that the dog has had its shots. This is not always true of dogs acquired by other means such as kids giving away “free puppies” from a box in front of the local grocery store or PetsMart.
The dogs at a shelter are not just strays and often are turned in to the shelter by former owners for various reasons. When this happens, the shelter collects as much information about the dog as possible, including whether its good with children, how much it barks, how playful or obedient it is, whether its housebroken, and other important details. While it’s true that this information is only as good as the honesty of the former owner, most of the time it is fairly accurate.
Animal shelters provide a valuable service to the community that they serve by keeping the streets as free of stray animals as possible. Because many of them do this with little or no public funding or governmental support, they are very limited in the number of dogs they can have in the shelter at any given time. The only way that they can bring in more stray animals is if they remove the ones they currently have. This is done through adoption or euthanasia. Obviously they would prefer to have the dogs adopted rather than killed. Adopting a dog could very well save its life and allows the shelter to bring in another dog in its place.
Obesity in Dogs
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Numerous studies have shown that more Americans are obese today than ever before and, interestingly, we’re not the only ones. Not only are Americans fatter than ever, so are their dogs; and the phenomenon can have serious ramifications for both groups. Obese dogs run a lot of the same risks that obese people do. When a dog is over weight it is at higher risk for heart disease, respiratory ailments, joint problems, and injury. In short; it is every bit as dangerous for a dog to be carrying extra weight as it is for a person – perhaps more so due to the shorter lifespan that dogs have.
Fortunately for us and our dogs; the equation is associative and works the same in the opposite direction. Just as a healthy diet and plenty of good cardiovascular exercise can trim down a chubby man; it can take the extra weight off of a dog.
Doggie Diets
To reduce the overweight or obese dog’s body weight, a program of diet and exercise should be introduced. It is important to visit a veterinarian as the doctor can determine whether the dog’s obesity is simply due to high caloric intake or some other medical concern.
Despite what food or dietary supplements you’re using, there is no substitute for the support and commitment of the family. Each member must agree to help control the dog’s caloric intake, feeding exact amounts and limiting the intake of snacks. Feeding the dog extra treats or table scraps on the sly will not be doing the pooch any favors. Some dogs will always look hungry no matter how much you feed them. Don’t fall for their antics. Start their diet by reducing the amount of their normal meal by 1/3 and refrain from providing extra treats or snacks. If snacks are a must include them in the total intake of calories per day, in other words reduce their normal meal size by the amount of treats. Here’s a good website the help manage your overweight dog –
The key is to find a high quality food that agrees with your pet’s system. It’s unlikely you’ll find this food at the grocery store unless you choose to feed a homemade raw diet.
Doggie Exercise Programs
Exercise is important for any dog. A dog that doesn’t get enough exercise quickly gains weight and may become extremely keyed up or very lethargic. Fortunately, most dogs love to exercise by nature. They love to run and play with their people. The overweight dog my be reluctant to exercise at first, but if you persist in taking him for walks or to play games like “fetch”, the pup will soon come around and start exercising more frequently and for longer periods of time. If your dog likes to swim, swimming is an excellent form of exercise for all dogs. Find fun things to do with your dog!
It Takes Commitment
People don’t get to their ideal weight overnight when dieting and neither will a dog. Remember that Rover didn’t put on those extra pounds all at once and they won’t come off that way either. Stay committed to providing a healthy diet and reduce the amount of food and snacks you and your family provide your dog.
Microchips Help Lost Dogs be Found
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008There is not much of anything in the world than the sight of a child who is grieving a lost dog. Teary-eyed and depressed, yet hopeful, she goes around the neighborhood tacking Xeroxed signs to telephone poles, pleading for the safe return of her beloved pet, all the time knowing that the odds are stacked against her and her dog.
Over the years there have been various methods enacted to try and raise the number of lost pets that are reunited with their owners. Dog licensing and tag laws are one way that local governments have tried to help, but they don’t work very well at all. If a lost dog has lost its identification tag it is nearly impossible for anyone to find the dog’s owner.
For many years the owners of show dogs have used tattoos to put permanent identifying marks of their dogs. The tattoo is placed on the skin of the inner thigh, near the abdomen and contains a unique number assigned by the American Kennel Club. The tattoos aren’t readily visible to the average person, however, and shelter employees seldom check for tattoos on the “strays” that are brought to them on a daily basis.
A newer method of dog identification hopes to put an end to the number of lost dogs that can’t be reunited with their owners, or at least reduce it significantly. A microchip is inserted under the dog’s skin near the shoulder. This chip contains encoded data about the dog and its owner that may then be read by a scanner. It is a more permanent method than a simple metal tag, less painful and inconvenient to the dog than tattooing, and has a higher success rate than any other method when it comes to getting lost dogs back together with their owners.
The method isn’t perfect; some microchips may shift over time and become unreadable to scanners and there is the possibility, however remote, that the microchip can become demagnetized. It is the best method developed so far and is now being used all over the world.
Insertion of the microchip is a simple and nearly pain free process for the dog. Unlike tattooing, which requires the dog to be restrained and often shaved, implantation of the microchip is similar to an injection. After a tiny pinprick, its over and the dog can now be identified at any shelter equipped with the scanning device. The information on the chip is unique to the dog and the owner and makes a reunion a high probability instead of a remote possibility.
Thanks to microchip technology, we may have seen the last child crying over her lost dog and that would be a Very Good Thing.
Heartworms in Dogs – What They Are & What to Do
Tuesday, April 29th, 2008Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.
Signs of Heartworm Infection
When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.
Treating Heartworm Infection
Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.
Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.
Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing
Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage
Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.
When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.


